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AA Notable Wine List 2016 - 2017
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Impeccable benchmark contemporary cooking

AA Inspector

At a glance

Open all year
Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access

Marcus Wareing has been a major player in the top-end London dining scene for a lot longer than the armchair army who tune in to BBC's MasterChef: The Professionals might have realised. He has been involved with The Berkeley for a decade, and since the much-publicised refurb in 2014 kicked the gentleman’s club ambience into touch and rebranded the enterprise with the more chilled Marcus monicker, his restaurant continues to rank as one of London’s Premier League gastronomic experiences. The hotel itself is a sybaritic five-star operation that makes an ideal location for a restaurant that reaches such heady heights of achievement. The dining room has the sort of genteel refinement you might expect at this level (and at these prices), so there’s oak panelling for a touch of gravitas, plenty of space between immaculately set tables, and a few striking contemporary artworks to jazz up the discreetly elegant look. The engaging service team work tirelessly (and seemingly effortlessly) ensure that every element of the experience meets the exacting standards one might hope for in what is essentially a special-occasion venue for many diners. Wareing has three restaurants under his belt, which is quite restrained by the standards of today's new empire-building breed of chefs, and means he's able to play close attention to his flagship address, while Mark Froydenlund is the man charged with day-to-day interpretation of the house style. At entry level, the 3-course lunchtime menu, while not quite a steal, offers very good value for such high-flying cooking, but having gone to the trouble of securing a table, you might as well go for broke via the carte or 5- and 8-course seasonal tasting menus. The combination of superb ingredients, measured and creative thinking and precise execution results in compelling stuff such as a starter that deftly matches top-class salmon and langoustine with quince and the citrus freshness of calamansi fruit, or another that serves lobster with pumpkin mousse-filled agnolotti, pumpkin sauce and the gentle glow of Espelette pepper. Everything looks spectacular on the plate, but elegantly so – there's no grandstanding here, for everything is on the plate for a reason. Halibut makes a welcome appearance, topped with razor-thin mushroom scales and matched with clams, razor clams, garlic gnocchi and a deeply-satisfying mushroom sauce, while a meaty option might combine fallow deer with celeriac, blackberry and pine nut in a captivating partnership. Desserts continue to deliver surprise and excitement with the citrussy aromatics of bergamot used to flavour set cream within master-class pastry, as well as meringue, gel and Earl Grey sorbet. Alternatively, the cheese trolley is as good as you’ll find anywhere, while the staggering wine list has all the big guns alongside some more left-field options.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Open all year
  • Days closed: Sunday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2.30
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 10.30

Chef

  • Chef: Marcus Wareing, Mark and Shauna Froydenlund

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern European, British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30: 950
  • Wines by the glass: 13

Price guide

  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 4
  • Accessible toilets

Facilities

  • Seats: 90
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 16
  • Off-site parking available: NCP, on street, valet

Additional information

  • Seats: 90
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 16

Getting here

Nearest train station

Knightsbridge, Hyde Park Corner
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