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AA Notable Wine List 2017-18
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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First-class modern British gastronomy in civilised surroundings

AA Inspector

At a glance

Open all year
Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access

It does make a nice change every once in a while to eat first-class modern British food in the kind of surroundings that would once have been the exclusive preserve of classical French gastronomy. Bare floorboards and rag-rolled walls are all very well, but sometimes it's deeply agreeable to the soul to step into a world of restrained elegance, where the tables are dressed in two layers of napery, muted light glows off burnished wood panelling, and little trolleys bear such goodies as bowls of petits fours or iced champagne. Not that there is anything overly stuffy about the ambience of Marcus Wareing's restaurant in Knightsbridge's Berkeley Hotel, but it is quality-signalling all the way. Wareing has been in the vanguard of modern cheffing for the past generation, and as well as being a familiar TV presence, is one of the great trainers of chefs. A highly commendable feature of the recent repertoire is a five-course lunch taster, in which each course is designed by a different chef. Head chefs Mark and Shauna Froydenlund contribute, respectively, an opener of sourdough crumpets with Essex cockle butter and a fish dish of turf-smoked trout with wild leek and sorrel. In between comes a version of chicken liver parfait with pain d'épices and rhubarb by a junior sous, while a more senior colleague has overseen the main course of short rib, slow-cooked for three days, and aromatised with wild garlic and onion. The Lancashire custard tart to finish is the recipe of Southport-born Marcus himself. In the evening, the lights are dimmed to a level that may take a little adjusting to, and the carte extends into the territory of Cumbrian rose veal neck with purple sprouting broccoli and winter savory, or benchmark Gigha halibut with a pickled egg, clams and monk's beard. They might follow a pitch-perfect offering of a brace of scallops with crisped shallots and verbena leaf in an emulsified beef dressing, while something of a signature dessert has been made from the pastry disc of piercing bergamot cream with soft meringues and a refreshingly unsweet ice made of Earl Grey tea. Seasonal tasting menus of five or eight courses represent terrific compilations of the main carte.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Open all year
  • Days closed: Sunday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2.30
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 10.30

Chef

  • Chef(s): Marcus Wareing, Mark and Shauna Froydenlund

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern European, British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30: 950
  • Wines by the glass: 13

Price guide

  • 3-course dinner from: £85
  • Tasting menu from: £105
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 4
  • Accessible toilets

Additional information

  • Seats: 90
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 16
  • Off-site parking available: NCP, on street, valet

Getting here

Nearest train station

Knightsbridge, Hyde Park Corner
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