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About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Exploratory cooking led by quality ingredients

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Service charge

The Club Hotel is as city-slick an operation as you'll find on a holiday island, and maintains a boutique element with unexpected design touches too. Consider a dining room that looks rather sober, with modern wood panelling and a single pendant light-fixture poised above each table, an understated space that does nothing to prepare you for Steve Smith's vivaciously creative cooking. Dishes are very much ingredient-led rather than recipe-led, which allows room for an exploratory approach that produces complex, but always carefully considered dishes. Start with a savoury custard tart, its filling made with rich brown crabmeat, while to one side a separate pastry disc is piled with the shredded white, decorated with glops of mango gel and wasabi mayonnaise. Holding the seafood line, you might continue with spangling-fresh turbot, served with plump mussels and carrot purée in a sauce of tangy sea buckthorn. Fashionable meat pairings might take in glazed breast and confit leg of duck in rhubarb with kohlrabi and pistachios, while lamb appears as loin and braised neck, with accompaniments of Jerusalem artichoke and goats' cheese. Dessert could be multi-layered in every sense, as is the case with the chocolate sponge that supports bands of Jivara mousse, then yuzu mousse, then a richer ganache, alongside yuzu and lactose ice cream on a rubble of biscuit crumbs. All the expected frills and furbelows are present, from satisfying savoury canapés to a pre-dessert that incorporates just about every possible texture of apple and blackberry, and labour-intensive petits fours.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Closed: 24–30 December
  • Days closed: Sunday (excluding Mother or Father's Day), Bank holiday Monday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2.30
  • Dinner served from: 6.30
  • Dinner served until: 10

Chef

  • Chef: Steve Smith

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern French, British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 19
  • Wines over £30: 275
  • Wines by the glass: 30

Price guide

  • 2-course lunch from19
  • 3-course lunch from24.95
  • 2-course dinner from50
  • 3-course dinner from59
  • Tasting menu from75
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 2
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Facilities

  • Seats: 60
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 24
  • On-site parking available
  • Off-site parking available: Opposite on Green Street

Additional information

  • Seats: 60
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 24

Getting here

In town centre. 5 minutes walk from main shopping centre

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Three-course lunch from£24.95**Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch *Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch
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