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AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Simply stunning seafood with a creative edge

AA Inspector

At a glance

Wines by the glass
Credit cards accepted

Tucked away in a little side street off Hove’s Western Road, chef-patron Duncan Ray’s modest little operation certainly punches above its weight. After stints at The Fat Duck and Pennyhill Park, Ray knows a thing or two about top-end dining – here he works alone in the kitchen, and the results speak for themselves: stunning local and sustainable seafood cooked with exemplary attention to detail, accuracy and an intelligent creative edge. The setting is a light-filled space done out with a bare-bones contemporary look: neutral colours, seafood-themed prints, wooden tables and quarry-tiled floors, and it is comfortable and atmospheric in the evening, with a charming solo server managing front of house for the lucky 20-odd diners. The tersely-worded fixed-price menu offers five no-choice courses and depends on what's been landed that day, perhaps sea-fresh mackerel with gazpacho, cucumber and basil before the elegant simplicity of slip sole served with seaweed butter. The bright, clean flavours continue in ideas such as a stunning piece of halibut with Jersey Royals, asparagus and St George’s mushroom, or a full-on fish and meat pairing of brill with chicken, morels and sherry. To close the show, there may be a clever take on the nougat glacé theme served with passionfruit and chocolate.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 1 week in March, 2 weeks in September, Christmas
  • Days closed: Sunday to Monday
  • Closed for lunch: Tuesday to Friday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2
  • Dinner served from: 7
  • Dinner served until: 9

Chef

  • Chef: Duncan Ray

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern Fish
  • Vegetarian dishes available
  • Wines under £30: 8
  • Wines over £30: 14
  • Wines by the glass: 9

Price guide

  • Credit cards accepted

Facilities

  • Seats: 22
  • Off-site parking available: On street

Additional information

  • Seats: 22

Getting here

Just off Western Road Upper Market Street past Co-op. Restaurant on right

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Nearest train station

Brighton
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