The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef and reassessment will take place in due course. Acquired in 1888 by the fifth Earl of Lonsdale, indefatigable sportsman and eventual first president of the Automobile Association, Holbeck Ghyll began life as a Victorian hunting lodge, when its eminent position overlooking Lake Windermere must have suggested itself as a suitable bolthole for country pursuits. Passing through successive stages of private ownership, it embarked on its career as a hotel in the 1970s, gradually acquiring the accretions of contemporary style in luxury suites, hot tub and steam room, and staging the kinds of weddings at which you will surely want to roll up in a vintage car. Dining goes on in an austerely panelled room, where the window seats are literally that, rather than freestanding chairs, for those with their backs to the view. Having your back to the view is not the luckiest option, as the sweeping panorama over the lake, with Coniston Old Man brooding in the background, is one of the magnetic attractions of Holbeck. Then again, for those who are single-mindedly focused on the food and its production, a chef's table for up to 10 diners is a trendy option.