Against a contemporary rustic backdrop of chunky wood tables and a smattering of modern artwork, the Lord Clyde is both a local pub and a dining destination, with polished but engaging service in the restaurant. The distinctively presented dishes fizz with innovative energy. The first foray might be a roll of crabmeat and Pink Lady apple, garnished with pickled apple, avocado purée and crisped chicken skin, a plateful of consummate freshness and quality. Most dishes are conceived as two pairs, as though on a dance card, so a main course of venison haunch and toasted spelt, celeriac and kale, offers benchmark pinkly roasted meat with the spelt in a creamy 'risotto', as well as steamed and crisp-fried kale and salt-baked and puréed celeriac. Turbot might link up with chorizo, attended by white beans and broccoli in various textures. Ingenuity at dessert produces a disassembled Alaska of lemon drizzle sponge, mascarpone ice cream and sea buckthorn curd amid melting shards of meringue.