This imposing white-painted inn, dating from the 15th century, has been run by the Hindmarsh family for over 40 years. The rug-strewn, antique-laden bar offers sandwiches and baguettes on top of the main menu, and Welsh real ales take the lead at the pumps. Alternatively, dine in the original D Restaurant, intimately dressed with linen and fresh cut flowers, or at a table in the restored former kitchen. Head chef Padrig Jones makes good use of local Welsh produce, as in a starter of Welsh rarebit on toasted ciabatta with watercress salad, followed by home-made faggots with onion gravy; or Cornish fish pie. For vegetarians, perhaps Melanzane di Parmigianna. Finish with sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce and rich clotted cream.