At the heart of pretty Pickering, The White Swan Inn fronts the steep main street dropping to the beck and steam railway station. With open fires, flagstone floors, panelling and eclectic furnishings, this sturdy coaching inn oozes character. Far from being a period piece, the owners have skilfully combined good contemporary design to produce a stylish destination dining inn. A creeper-clad courtyard snuggles behind, where browsers can enjoy Timothy Taylor Landlord bitter. It's for the exceptional menus, however, that guests travel to savour. The team led by Derren Clemmit scour the county for the best ingredients. Rare breed meats from two, top-quality butchers; and lobster and fish from Whitby are crafted into a fine dining experience. A starter of potted crab with celeriac remoulade or poached asparagus, is an appetiser for roast shoulder of Tamworth pork with apple sauce, crackling, goose fat potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and gravy; or spring vegetable risotto with parmesan salad. A local cheeseboard is an ample conclusion, whilst the wine list has 90 bins.