Empty plates, diners’ contented smiles and two AA Rosettes testify to the Jack’s well-deserved reputation for upmarket modern British food, but this family-friendly roadside pub also offers good West Country brews on tap. The smart interior with its low beamed rooms, soft brown leather chairs and a wood-burning stove create a contemporary pub atmosphere. In the restaurant, the simple philosophy is to serve the best seasonal Devon produce in stylish surroundings. Local artisan producers underpin chef Matthew Mason’s innovative menus with punchy flavours, be it game from local shoots, or salad leaves and seasonal vegetables from growers just six miles away. A three-course ‘Totally Devon’ selection could start with goats' cheese mousse, baby figs in rum and warm walnut bread. Next may come breast of Pipers Farm chicken with smoked celeriac purée, buttered cabbage and truffle hazelnut pesto, and last but not least lemon verbena crème brûlée with peach sorbet; or Devon blue cheese with biscuits and fig jam.