Books by Raymond Blanc, Gordon Ramsay, Stéphane Reynaud and other top chefs casually repose around this whitewashed, part 18th-century free house. They suggest that food is taken seriously here – seriously enough to warrant two AA Rosettes, that's for sure. Responsible are Alastair and Claire Ross, he with a CV listing The Savoy, Leith’s and a London private members’ club. In the simply furnished dining room, Alastair's refined dishes change daily, combining classic techniques and modern flavours to offer such starters as celeriac and parmesan soup; or warm pork belly and black pudding salad. Then, maybe fillet of sea bass with roast scallops, tenderstem broccoli and leek risotto; or best end of lamb with olive oil and chorizo mashed potato. As well as fine real ales from Timothy Taylor and Jennings, there are world-sourced bottled beers, a serious wine list, and over 20 malt whiskies.