Celebrity chef Tom Kerridge and his sculptor wife Beth have without doubt turned their simple concept into reality by making this 18th-century pub the sort of place where they, and everyone else, would like to eat. Four AA Rosettes and a chock-a-block reservations diary testify to that. Housing all the desired historic features – flagstone floors, old timbers and log fires – the bar offers the unusual opportunity to drink a pint of Roasted Nuts (actually a real ale from Marlow's Rebellion brewery). Sourcing some ingredients from his own allotment, Tom's menus combine modern British and rustic French cooking, such as the duck liver parfait with orange chutney and toasted brioche starter. Mouth-wateringly descriptive mains include loin of Cotswold venison with boudin noir purée, allotment roots, ragout pie and cow puff; and Essex lamb ‘bun’ with sweetbreads and salsa verde. Booking to eat here is essential and must be arranged months in advance – although it’s always worth a call to check for cancellations.