Watlington - a Classic Small Town

Standing at the foot of the Chilterns escarpment, close to the Icknield Way, Watlington is one of Oxfordshire's classic old towns - small and compact, and surrounded by some of the prettiest scenery to be found in the county. During the Civil War, Watlington stood in the shadow of battle, with Royalist and Parliamentarian armies engaged in bitter conflict in the nearby fields.

The quaint streets are lined with 17th-century half-timbered houses. Watlington's focal point is the gabled Town Hall, constructed in 1664. It is one of the oldest in the county. At one time a bridge connected the Town Hall to the upper floors of the nearby Hare and Hounds Hotel, now closed. The Town Hall was originally used as a a market hall, built with funds provided by one Thomas Stonor. The upper room was adapted for use as a Grammar School for boys until 1872, when a Board School was set up in premises in Davenport Place.

Another interesting building is Chiltern Gate, between the car park and Couching Street. It was opened by Lord Macclesfield in 1865 as a training school for those in domestic service. Up to 14 girls boarded here and were trained in cooking, housework and laundry. Lady Macclesfield paid some of the girls as little as six shillings per quarter.

The original Hare and Hounds, which occupied a site near by, is associated with Colonel John Hampden, an MP and leader of the Parliamentary forces in the Civil War. He stayed at the inn the night before the Battle of Chalgrove Field in June 1643 and is alleged to have given the landlord, Robert Parslow, a chest containing money for the payment of troops. Hampden was fatally wounded in battle and never returned to Watlington. What happened to the chest is not known but some years later, perhaps driven by guilt, Parslow established a local charity to help the poor.

Watlington assumes the appearance of a small 18th-century market town, yet most of its streets were already complete by the 14th century. During the 1730s the existence of about 260 houses was recorded. Today many of those buildings still recall their medieval origins - narrow on the street frontage but of considerable depth, with a side passage.

The name of the town dates back to ad 880 when it was known as Watelingtone. Springs, wells and watercress beds add to its character and the chalk used as building material in the town's early development comes from pits at the foot of the Chilterns. The people of Watlington were given certain rights - including quarrying their own chalk for building houses. By the late 17th century Nettlebed bricks were in use, and tiles from the same Oxfordshire village began to replace thatch.

To find the true heart of Watlington, walk along the High Street to New Road. This, reputedly, is the centre of the original settlement. During the 13th century a manor house stood on this site and the manor court was held here. The manor house later went into decline and the king's bailiff was accused of pilfering its timber and stone. The remains of a moat can still be identified in the churchyard.

While you're there

Watlington church, dedicated to St Leonard, is built of flint with stone dressings. Thought to date from the 12th century, the church was largely rebuilt in 1877 and includes a Victorian nave.

Where to eat and drink

Watlington has several pubs, including the Carriers Arms by the car park. Hot and cold bar snacks are available and the likes of ham, egg and chips and chicken curry feature on the menu. The Fox and Hounds at Christmas Common offers traditional ales and a beer garden. Imaginative and enterprising though the menu undoubtedly is, the inn is much more upmarket than it used to be so light snacks and basic meals are not very plentiful.

What to look for

Given to the National Trust in 1941 by the 3rd Viscount and Viscountess Esher, Watlington Hill is a large area of chalk downland and copse rising to over 700ft (213m) on the north escarpment of the Chilterns. Popular with visitors and locals, the hill offers grand views and plenty of opportunity for walking.