The Romance of Rob Roy in Callander

Steep wooded paths lead you through the crags for superb views of the Trossachs.

Distance 3 miles (4.8km)

Minimum time 2hrs 15min

Ascent/gradient 896ft (273m)

Level of difficulty Medium

Paths Forest tracks and some rocky paths

Landscape Mixed woodlands, great views of hills and lochs

Suggested map aqua3 OS Explorer 365 The Trossachs

Start/finish NN 625079

Dog friendliness Can run free - steep climb and crags might not suit some

Parking Riverside car park

Public toilets Callander

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Directions
Background
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1 From the Riverside car park, walk back to the main road, then turn left. Follow this, then turn right along Tulliepan Crescent. Just in front of the new housing estate, turn left and follow the wide track. Where the track splits, take the path on the left that is signposted 'The Crags'.

2 Your path now winds steeply uphill through the trees and can get slippery if there's been a lot of rain. Keep following the path and cross a footbridge. Climb to reach a wall on the left-hand side, after which your path narrows. Follow it to pass a large boulder.

3 Continue following the path, which eventually bears left, up some steps to a fence. Cross another footbridge, scramble over some rocks and go through a metal kissing gate. You eventually come to a memorial cairn, created in 1897 for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. On a clear day there are stunning, panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.

4 Leaving the cairn, your path now begins to wind downhill. It's rocky in places and you'll need to take some care as you descend. Eventually you'll spot the road through the trees. Turn right into the trees and walk down to join it.

5 Turn right along the road - you'll see the Wallace Monument near Stirling in the far distance. You'll soon pass a sign on the right-hand side for the Red Well, where the water runs a distinctly reddish colour owing to the presence of iron traces in the local rock. Continue until you reach a car park on your left. You can make a detour here to see the Bracklyn Falls.

6 After the car park, stay on the road for about 100yds (91m), then turn right to climb some wooden steps - they're signposted 'The Crags Upper Wood Walk', but the sign faces away from you. Walk past a small building, cross a little footbridge and walk to a crossing of footpaths.

7 Turn left for a few paces, then turn right. Continue walking through the woods, cross a footbridge and, when you reach a wider, slate-covered track, turn right and walk uphill. At the end of the track, turn left and walk downhill until you reach a wooden seat and a footbridge.

8 Take the path that runs to the right of the seat (don't cross the footbridge). Follow the path as it runs downhill and takes you back to the place at which you entered the woods. Turn right, then go left along the main road and walk back into Callander to the car park at the start of the walk.

As you climb through the trees and scramble over the rocks above Callander, it is easy to imagine yourself back in the late 17th century, when Rob Roy and his clansmen lived as outlaws in the heart of the Trossachs. His name has for centuries been tied up with myth and legend, and has inspired many authors and film makers - including Sir Walter Scott, who wrote a romantic account of his life in his eponymous novel of 1818. For some Rob Roy is a Highland hero, for others a notorious cattle thief - whatever the truth behind the myth, he is certainly one of the most colourful characters in Scottish history.

Rob Roy (the Gaelic for Red Robert) was more properly known as Robert MacGregor. Born in 1671, he was the son of Donald MacGregor of Glengyle. This clan - the 'wicked Clan Gregor' - had been outlawed in 1603, and was known as 'the nameless clan' as they were even forbidden to use their name. The MacGregors had a violent reputation, as they defended their lands and cattle vigorously against assaults from neighbouring clans - which included the rival Campbells, who acted as government agents. Rob Roy, living as a cattle herder in Balquhidder, kept an armed band of men to protect him and his cattle - and extended their services to neighbours who paid him protection money. He began to extend his influence and eventually made a claim to be the chief of the clan.

In 1712 Rob Roy borrowed money from the Duke of Montrose for a speculative cattle deal, and suffered heavy losses, which caused a terrible rift between them. His lands were seized, his properties plundered and his wife and children were turned out of their home in the middle of winter. These were already troubled times, for the Jacobite rebellion had begun in 1689 and there were frequent battles between government forces and the supporters of James. Rob Roy, who had fought on the Jacobite side at Sheriffmuir, now gathered his clansmen and took revenge on the Duke of Montrose, who was a powerful supporter of the government.

As a result, Rob Roy was outlawed and stories began to appear about his dramatic escapes from his pursuers. He even began to be seen as a sort of Robin Hood figure, generously helping the poor by stealing from the rich. Local people would help him and warn him if troops were in the area.

However, Rob Roy's luck didn't last - he was eventually captured in 1727 and was sentenced to transportation. He was later pardoned and went back to Balquhidder, where he seems to have settled down and lived quietly for the rest of his life. He died in 1734 and is buried in Balquhidder churchyard.

Where to eat and drink

There are several cafés and pubs in Callander. Dun Whinny's, on Bridge Street, serves a good selection of toasted sandwiches, light meals and home baking as well as foamy cappuccinos. It can get busy so you can also try Pip's Coffee House near by. A few miles north at Kilmahog is the Lade Inn.

While you're there

In the centre of Callender is the Rob Roy and Trossachs Visitor Centre. There's an audio-visual presentation which takes you through the lands he once lived in, and tells you the story of his life. Rob Roy and his clansmen, you'll discover, were known as the 'Children of the Mist' - as they would appear suddenly out of the mist to steal cattle or collect their protection money.

What to look for

In Callander you won't be able to escape the Highland kitsch that seems to accompany every Scottish tourist attraction, but its origins are at least ancient. The word clan comes from the Gaelic word 'clann'. This originally meant 'children' but gradually came to be used to refer to 'kindred'. The earliest clan was Clann Duib, or Clan Duff. They were the ruling family of Fife. The head of the clan was referred to as MacDuib, or MacDuff.