The Heart of Bishopsbourne

Discover the country home of author Joseph Conrad and a peculiar coincidence involving James Bond.

Distance 4 miles (6.4km)

Minimum time 2hrs

Ascent/gradient 328ft (100m)

Level of difficulty Medium

Paths Narrow lanes and field paths

Landscape Country house parkland, agricultural fields and orchards

Suggested map aqua3 OS Explorer 150 Canterbury & the Isle of Thanet

Start/finish TR 188526

Dog friendliness Good, can mostly run free except around Bourne House

Parking On street in Bishopsbourne, especially near Mermaid Inn

Public toilets None on route

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Directions
Background
Information

1 From the church, walk through the graveyard following the Elham Valley Way. While you're here, have a look for the grave of the Revd Joseph Bancroft Reade. A former rector of the church, he was an enlightened chap and one of only a handful of religious men who felt that Darwin's theory of evolution did not go against the teachings of the Bible. At a waymarker, bear right across pasture for about 200yds (183m) then cross a bridge over the Nail Bourne. Nip over another stile and continue through the parkland of Bourne House, passing the lake on your left. After 650yds (594m) cross a stile and turn left into Bourne Park Road. Stroll past the gates of Bourne House and continue until you reach two cottages on the right.

2 Turn left down the lane and cross the stream again. Follow the lane until it peters out near a farm and hop gardens, then continue ahead between the hedges. There's a gentle climb now, across a bridge and up to the top of the hill. Cross a stile at the right-hand corner of the field, then descend into the valley walking diagonally over the fields towards the distant high hedge (use the pylon on the horizon as a marker). Now nip over the stile, turn right round the orchard margin and after about 300yds (274m) cut over another stile on your right. Turn left and walk along the road to Middle Pett Farm.

3 Continue walking ahead, pass Little Pett Farm and then turn left to head up the footpath. Cross a stile at the top left-hand corner of a field and follow the signs round the left-hand margin of the next field, turning right at the cattle trough. Continue to cross a stile on the left, then walk left around the next field and continue uphill towards the corner of the woodland. Follow the left-hand side of the wood and, after about 400yds (366m), turn sharp left, away from the wood and cross the field to the marker post by the holly hedge.

4 Fork right across the field, turn right into the woodland and follow the track. Emerge into open fields and soon go sharp left. Fork right at the first telegraph pole and walk across a large field heading towards the chimneys of Crows Camp ahead. Pass to the left of the garden hedge, turn left at the road and walk back into Bishopsbourne.

Get your boots on, synchronise your watches and pack your satellite locator - you probably won't need them, but this walk is filled with reminders of a couple of all action heroes; a swashbuckling sailor and a fictional spy.

Polish writer Joseph Conrad (1857-1924) came to Bishopsbourne in 1919. He was the author of many novels, but could hardly have invented a more entertaining story than that of his own life. Born Jósef Teodor Konrad Nalecz Korzeniowski in 1857 in Berdichev, Poland (now in the Ukraine), Conrad lost both his parents at an early age. He left Poland as soon as he could and went to Marseilles to join the French merchant navy.

Conrad travelled widely and was involved with the smuggling trade, running guns to supporters of Don Carlos VII, who was trying (unsuccessfully as it turned out) to claim the Spanish throne. As with all good stories, Conrad fell in love with one of Carlos' supporters, a Basque woman named Dona Rita. The relationship must have been stormy and passionate, for he fought a duel over her, his opponent was an American called Captain Blunt. Neither man died, but both were wounded - Conrad narrowly missed being shot through the heart. It didn't do him much good for his Spanish lover went off with Captain Blunt anyway.

Shortly before he was 21 Conrad took a job on a British ship. He learned English, passed his captain's exams and in 1884 became a naturalised British subject. He travelled to wild and remote places, such as Borneo, Singapore and Australia. He also went up river in the Belgian Congo, a part of Africa known as the 'white man's graveyard'. This inspired his novel Heart of Darkness (which in turn, inspired Francis Ford Coppola's Vietnam epic Apocalypse Now), but also seriously undermined his health.

Eventually Conrad gave up his rather wild seafaring ways and settled down quietly in Kent. He took to writing, simplifying his name as he guessed - correctly - that no one would be able to get their tongue round Korzeniowski. He spent the last five years of his life at Bishopsbourne, living at Oswalds, a little house by the church.

One of Conrad's novels was entitled The Secret Agent (1907) and he probably would have made a great James Bond. By coincidence, one of the James Bond books, You Only Live Twice (1964) was written at the Duck pub at nearby Pett Bottom. Ian Fleming, who wrote the books, lived in Kent, when he wasn't living in Jamaica, and frequently took his inspiration from the area. In fact James Bond's code name was taken from the number 007 bus that ran by Fleming's home near Dover. I don't know whether the Duck ever served martinis - shaken, not stirred - but if he'd been around Joseph Conrad would no doubt have tried one.

Where to eat and drink

The Mermaid Inn at Bishopsbourne is a CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) recommended pub and serves excellent lunches. You can also stop off on your walk to visit the Duck Inn at Pett Bottom, which serves good food. The nearby village of Bridge has several pubs and a good bakery.

What to look for

Early on this walk you go by the lovely parkland of Bourne House. The house was built in 1702 and is considered to be Kent's finest Queen Anne building. When the lake was excavated Roman pottery and coins were found and archaeologists think that this was the site of an important settlement.

While you're there

Bishopsbourne church dates back to the 13th century. It has medieval floor tiles, stained glass and wall paintings. Take a look at the west window by the Arts and Crafts artists Edward Burne-Jones and William Morris.