Ports Down's Fortress Follies

A rural ramble from the D-Day village of Southwick to Fort Nelson.

Distance 6 miles (9.7km)

Minimum time 3hrs

Ascent/gradient 390ft (119m)

Level of difficulty Medium

Paths Field, woodland paths and stretches of road, 17 stiles

Landscape Open downland and gently rolling farmland

Suggested map aqua3 OS Explorer 119 Meon Valley

Start/finish SU 627085

Dog friendliness Dogs should be kept under control, especially along roads

Parking Free car park by Southwick Village Hall, close to HMS Dryad

Public toilets Fort Nelson (if visiting museum)

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Directions
Background
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1 From the village car park, turn right to a junction and bear left to a roundabout. Go straight over taking the narrow lane for Portchester. Climb steeply, bearing right by a quarry then, where the road veers sharp left, take the lane right.

2 Descend for 150yds (137m), then turn left through a gap in the hedge and follow the footpath diagonally across a field, heading just to the right of the Nelson Monument. Maintain direction across a further field to a stile and lane. Turn left, pass Nelson's Monument and turn right at the crossroads, signed to 'Fort Nelson'.

3 Having visited the fort, retrace your steps back to the Monument and continue down the lane for 50yds (46m). Take the footpath left over a stile. Head towards the right corner of the fort, cross a stile and skirt the edge of the fort to a further stile. Bear half-right across the field, between a house and pylon, to a road.

4 Turn right downhill, then right again at the next junction. After 200yds (183m) bear left through St Nicholas's churchyard. Rejoin the road and continue past barns and a pond. Shortly, beside a lay-by, bear left over a stile and follow the footpath along the left-hand field edge. Continue on between fields, then by Grub Coppice to cross a bridge.

5 Climb a stile, keep to the right-hand field edge to a stile on the right. Cross a further stile and walk along the left-hand field edge to another stile. Turn left across a stile by the stream and bear right, around the edge of the field to a stile and road. Cross the stile opposite and walk along the right-hand field edge close to a stream. Follow the field boundary left and shortly bear right across a bridge and stile to join a track.

6 Pass between farm buildings, go through a gate and bear left down to the B2177. Cross over and take the footpath right along a track. It becomes grassy and bears right into woodland. Take the second footpath right, emerge from the trees and head across a narrow field. Cross a bridge, bear right, then half-left making for a large oak. Swing left and descend steps to a lane.

7 Cross over and bear half-right across the field towards the church tower. Cross a bridge and continue through a plantation. Beyond another bridge, walk up a drive to the road. Turn left, then right into Southwick. Keep left at the junction and left again to the car park.

Rising 381ft (116m) above the coastal plain and extending for some 6¼ miles (10km) from Bedhampton to Fareham, Ports Down is a prominent chalk ridge commanding impressive views over Portsmouth and Langstone Harbours. The outward route of your walk climbs the backslope of the hill to Nelson's Monument where you will be delighted by the panorama. You can pick out Portchester Castle below, scan across the dense city of Portsmouth to HMS Victory and look across the Solent to view nearly the whole length of the Isle of Wight. Dominating the hill away to your right is Fort Nelson, one of five massive, polygonal brick forts, with dry moats, built at 2-mile (3.2km) intervals along the ridge.

During the mid-19th century, Britain seemed threatened by the possibility of a French invasion under Napolean III. A Royal Commission called for a ring of fortifications around Portsmouth to protect England's most important naval base. Sea forts on the southern side of the city were bolstered by five more on Ports Down, built between 1860 and 1872, protecting the landward approach. These were Farlington Redoubt, Fort Purbrook, Fort Widley, Fort Southwick and Fort Nelson. Prime Minister Lord Palmerston ordered their construction, despite objections from Gladstone, who threatened to resign as Chancellor. It's said that Palmerston told Queen Victoria it was better to lose Gladstone than Portsmouth!

Soon after the completion of Fort Nelson in 1871 the threat from the French disappeared and the forts became known as Palmerston's Follies. During the Second World War Fort Nelson, in particular, played an important role in Britain's anti-aircraft defences as an ammunition depot. Impressive from the outside, Fort Nelson is well worth visiting to marvel at its construction from within. Join a guided tour and explore the earthworks and brick defences, then head into the tunnels and underground ammunition stores.

The low coastline and sheltered natural harbours of Hampshire played a vital role in the run up to the D-Day invasion of France in June 1944. Hundreds of boats and thousands of men were assembled along the coast ready for action, and the planning of Operation Overlord was undertaken in great secrecy from the sleepy estate village of Southwick. On your return walk you will see a complex of modern buildings surrounding an impressive early 19th-century mansion. The Ministry of Defence acquired Southwick House during the Second World War, moving the training facility HMS Dryad out of Portsmouth to the surrounding grounds. Just before D-Day it became the headquarters for General Eisenhower and the Chiefs of Staff. Winston Churchill and Eisenhower supervised the actual landing from a special train at nearby Droxford Station.

While you're there

Visit the Royal Armouries Museum in Fort Nelson. Imaginative scenes and hands-on exhibits, together with video presentations, describe the development of artillery over the last 500 years. There are guns from around the world.

Where to eat and drink

In Southwick you have the choice of two pubs, the Golden Lion and the Red Lion. If you visit Fort Nelson, the Powder Keg Café is open all day.

What to look for

While strolling around Southwick look out for the plaque on the Red Lion which records that Generals Montgomery and Eisenhower drank there during D-Day preparations in 1944.