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Lechlade and the Thames

You are never far from the river on this route, centred on a once bustling crossroads in a quiet corner bordering Wiltshire and Oxfordshire.

Distance 5 miles (8km)

Minimum time 2hrs

Ascent/gradient Negligible

Level of difficulty Easy

Paths Fields, tracks and road, 8 stiles

Landscape Water-meadows, river and village

Suggested map aqua3 OS Explorer 170 Abingdon

Start/finish SU 214995

Dog friendliness Good but many swans and ducks beside rivers

Parking Lechlade main street or square

Public toilets On Burford Street in Lechlade

User rating: 4 out of 5 (1 user review)
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1 From the handsome Market Square walk west along the High Street and then left along Thames Street. Look around and you will see the high, slender spire of the majestic parish church, a constant presence throughout this walk even as the route strays into Wiltshire and Oxfordshire. The spire was perfectly described by the 16th-century writer John Leland as a 'pratie pyramis of stone'.

2 Halfpenny Bridge is a toll bridge that opened in 1792 - the toll house is still standing. Cross this bridge and, at the end, drop down some steps on the right to the riverbank. Walk ahead, with the river to your right, for just over ½ mile (800m) until, immediately after a bridge across the Thames, you see an old roundhouse among the trees on the far bank. Here the River Coln joins the Thames, alongside the now silted-up Thames and Severn Canal.

3 Continue along the riverbank, cross a footbridge over a stream and head across the field to find a stile to the left of a house. The walk continues by turning left along the lane but, if you want to visit Inglesham church, turn right. This charming medieval building, much admired by William Morris, contains an exceptionally beautiful 13th-century Madonna and Child. At the end of the lane turn right, along the main road (making use of the verge). After 150yds (137m) turn left towards Buscot. In ¾ mile (1.2km) turn left along the drive of Buscot Wick Farm. Just before the farmyard turn right along a drive before cottages and then go across some grass to a gate. Turn left around a house and after 150yds (137m) go half right across a field to a gate. In the next field stay on the same line to another gate. Go through into a field, follow a hedge and then turn left through a gate and cross a field to the road. Go through a gate on the other side, cross the field to a stile and turn left into the churchyard.

4 Buscot church contains a striking east window by the pre-Raphaelite artist Edward Burne-Jones, a pulpit partly made from a Flemish triptych and some delightful paintings, part of the memorials to members of the Loveden family. Leave by the lychgate and follow the riverbank to emerge at Buscot Weir. Here turn right if you want to visit the estate village of Buscot, which now belongs to the National Trust; there is a small shop and a pub on its short main street. Otherwise walk on to pass Lock Cottage and make your way across a succession of locks and bridges to a stile. Do not cross this but turn left to follow the Thames Path. Follow the river's meanderings until it brings you to a wooden bridge. Cross this and turn right to continue along the riverbank, noting the River Leach across to your right, which joins the River Thames just before St John's Bridge.

5 Walk beneath St John's Bridge, which dates from the 14th century and which takes its name from a former nearby priory. Pass a lock, noting the statue of Father Thames that was built for the Great Exhibition of 1851 and which was moved here from its original site at Thames Head. Then enter the wide meadow ahead through a gate, the spire of Lechlade's parish church towers out of the flat landscape. The parish church was the inspiration for Percy Shelley's Summer Evening Meditation. Continue to the Halfpenny Bridge and Lechlade.

Lechlade was the upper limit for navigation of the Thames. In 1789, when the Thames and Severn Canal was completed, it became possible to move cargoes from ship to barge for the 29 mile (46.5km) journey across Gloucestershire. Local stone went east and was extensively used in London and Oxford.

With both the River Coln and the River Leach flowing into the River Thames hereabouts, it is no surprise that there are a number of bridges. (Lechlade is in fact the only Gloucestershire town on the Thames.) Beneath the bridges, crowds of river pleasure craft have replaced the trading vessels of the past while above, notwithstanding their age, the bridges continue their function, bearing the loads of modern-day road traffic.

Where to eat and drink

Lechlade has a several venerable old pubs to tempt the walker. Try the New Inn on the Market Place or the Red Lion on the HIgh Street. These are both traditional coaching inns serving bar food and real ale. By the Thames you will find the Trout Inn which can trace its origins back to the 13th century.

What to look for

Although the attractions of Lechlade might seem to be confined to the main street and to the church, it is worth spending some time wandering the streets that run off from the market square. Along them are a number of handsome buildings dating from the 17th to the 19th century.

While you're there

Just over 2 miles (3.2km) to the east of Lechlade is Kelmscot. The poet and craftsman, William Morris, the leading light of the Arts and Crafts Movement, lived in the Elizabethan manor house here from 1871 until his death in 1896. Morris is buried in the churchyard, whilst there is a charming carving of him on the village's Memorial Cottages.

 

User reviews

User rating: 4 out of 5 (1 user review)

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User rating: 4 out of 5

Really good, varied walk taking in the river, fields, tracks and lanes. Can be very muddy/ wet but thoroughly worth it. Can be a little difficult to follow just the instructions so well worth taking a map Starts and finishes in the lovely village of Lechlade with pubs and shops for post walk refreshment.

Reviewer: BeckyE, Watchfield
Visited: 24 January 2009

140 of 263 people found this review helpful.
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