Burgh Island Paradise

A chance to mingle with the stars in an Art Deco dream and have a drink in Devon's oldest inn.

Distance 3 miles (4.8km)

Minimum time 1hr 45min

Ascent/gradient 246ft (75m)

Level of difficulty Medium

Paths Fields, tracks (muddy in winter) and coast path, 4 stiles

Landscape Rolling coastal farmland and cliff top

Suggested map aqua3 OS Outdoor Leisure 20 South Devon

Start/finish SX 651442

Dog friendliness Dogs to be kept under control at all times

Parking Huge car park at Bigbury-on-Sea

Public toilets At car park

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Directions
Background
Information

1 Leave the car park through the entrance. Follow coast path signs right, (for the low tide route to the seasonal ferry to Bantham, then left towards the road, then left again up a grassy area. Turn left before the bungalow, then left (unmarked path) to reach the road. Turn right and walk steeply uphill to Mount Folly Farm.

2 Turn left along a gravelly track (signed 'Ringmore'). At the top of the field is a junction of paths; go through the gate left, then through the metal gate ahead, keeping downhill. Cross a stile and walk downhill through a kissing gate. Cross the farm track and up the field, to reach a high stile, then descend steps into a narrow lane.

3 Cross over, following signs for Ringmore, through the left of the two gates. Walk down into the next combe, keeping the hedgebank right. Cross the stream at the bottom on a concrete walkway, and over a stile. Ignore the path left, but go straight ahead, uphill, through a plantation and gate onto a narrow path between a fence and hedge.

4 Pass through a kissing gate, then turn right through an open gateway. Turn immediately left uphill to a metal gate/stile to join a track that leads to Ringmore. Turn right at the lane, then left at the church to find the Journey's End on the right.

5 From the pub turn right down the narrow lane which gives way to a footpath. It winds round to meet a tarmac lane. Turn left downhill. Walk straight on down the track (signed to 'Lower Manor Farm') and keep going down past the 'National Trust Ayrmer Cove' notice. After a small gate the track splits; keep left (unsigned) and straight on.

6 Turn left through a kissing gate and walk towards the cove on a grassy path above the combe (left). Pass through a gate and over two stiles to gain the beach.

7 Follow coast path signs ('Challaborough') left over a small footbridge then climb very steeply uphill to the cliff top and great views over Burgh Island. The cliffs are crumbly here - take care. The path is narrow, with a wire fence left, and leads to Challaborough - basically one huge holiday camp.

8 Turn right along the beach road and follow the track that leads uphill along the coast towards Bigbury. Go straight on to meet the tarmac road, then right on a narrow gravel path to the car park.

The broad, sandy beaches and dunes at Bigbury-on-Sea and Bantham, at the mouth of the River Avon south of Kingsbridge, attract hundreds of holidaymakers every summer, drawn by the appeal of sun, sand and sea. There's no doubt that this is a perfect spot for a family day out. Gone are the days of the 16th or 17th centuries when Bigbury was merely famous for its catches of pilchards! But there's something else appealing about this part of the South Devon coast. Just off Bigbury beach, 307yds (282m) from shore, lies craggy Burgh Island, with its famous hotel gazing at the mainland. This extraordinary island is completely surrounded by the sea at high tide but is accessible via the weird and wonderful sea tractor that ploughs its way through the waters.

The island was known as la Burgh in the 15th century, and later Borough Island. There was a chapel dedicated to St Michael on its summit in 1411, and it has been likened to the much larger St Michael's Mount in Cornwall. The remains of a 'huer's hut' at the top of the island - a fisherman's lookout - is evidence of the times when pilchard fishing was a mainstay of life here too, hence the building of the Pilchard Inn, housed in one of the original fisherman's cottages. But it is the island's more recent history that is so fascinating. It was bought in 1929 by wealthy industrialist Archibald Nettlefold, who built the Burgh Island Hotel, much as we see it today. He ran it as a guest house for friends and celebrities, and it became a highly fashionable venue for the jet-set in the 1930s. Noel Coward was among the famous who visited, and it is thought that Edward, Prince of Wales and Wallis Simpson escaped from the limelight here; but the island's most famous connection has to be with Agatha Christie. Two of her books - Evil Under the Sun and And Then There Were None - were written here, and the influence of the hotel and its location on her writing is clear. By the mid 1980s the hotel had fallen into disrepair, and two London fashion consultants, Beatrice and Tony Porter, bought the island and restored the hotel to its original 1930s Art Deco glory, complete with the famous Palm Court and authentic Twenties cocktail bar. For a bit of escapism Burgh Island is hard to beat - but take your cheque book!

Where to eat and drink

The wonderful Bay Café at Bigbury has great views over Burgh Island. There's a Venus Café, and a beach café at Challaborough. The Journey's End at Ringmore is full of atmosphere and has great food. Don't expect to drop into the Burgh Island Hotel unless you've brought your cocktail dress or bow-tie with you - but you can always make do with the Pilchard Inn.

While you're there

Take a ride on the lumbering sea tractor over to Burgh Island. It's great fun and saves getting your feet wet as the tide rushes in. The tractor, designed specifically for the purpose, runs all year round (every ½ hour in summer, every hour in winter; last tractor 11:30pm). It can operate in 10ft (3.5m) of seawater and in gale conditions up to force 9 - though I wouldn't like to try it!