Around Chedworth Villa

The Romans invaded Britain in ad 43 and appeared to have brought the area that is now Gloucestershire under their thrall within four years. The area west of the Fosse Way remained under military alert for another decade, but by ad 60 the Romans were established as rulers. The process of colonisation was a long one, but by the early part of the 2nd century ad the Romans and their subjects, known as the 'Romano-British', felt sufficiently at ease to begin the construction of small, timber-framed villas in the valleys of the Cotswold escarpment. Later ones were built of stone, but the features that have survived best in the centuries since are the magnificent mosaics that were made by craftsmen from Cirencester, which was the second town of Roman Britain. Even though the Roman administration withdrew from Britain in ad 410, mosaics were still being constructed as late as ad 395. Chedworth, however, is an early example, dating from about ad 120.

The subject of this walk, the Chedworth Roman Villa, sits in a secluded, wooded stretch of the Coln valley, well protected from the elements and with a good supply of water - the spring later fed a temple to a water goddess. Despite our usual perception of a historically densely wooded Britain, the truth is that the villa would have stood in open countryside.

Although it was eventually the home of a well-to-do family, to begin with the villa functioned primarily as a farmhouse. The surrounding land was used for cultivating crops and raising animals. The resulting produce was distributed along the nearby Fosse Way. It was 200 years later that Chedworth was turned into the villa of a rich family. Steam baths were added and the common rooms were enlarged. The beautiful mosaic floors were laid down in the last part of the 4th century ad. It is believed that the occupants of the villa, in either of its incarnations, were almost certainly not from Rome - it is more likely that they were native people who had thrown in their lot with the new rulers.

What to look for

Early in the walk you will cross a clearly artificial embankment; later, in the woods beyond the Roman villa, you will pass under a bridge arch. Both are relics from the old Cheltenham-to-Swindon railway line which threaded a tenuous route through the county, operating from 1891 until its closure in 1961.

Where to eat and drink

The Seven Tuns in Chedworth is a delighful pub, ancient and highly picturesque, facing a bubbling stream in the shadow of the church. The shop at the Roman villa sells chocolate and a few other snacks. There are also pubs at nearby Fossebridge and Foss Cross.

While you're there

In the vicinity of Chedworth, you will probably notice signs for the 'Denfurlong Trail'. This self-guided walk makes use of a taped commentary that takes you around a dairy farm and describes the work involved. Daily milking takes place in the late afternoon. There are two possible trails to follow, the longer one requiring about two hours.