A Revolting Queen at Caistor St Edmund

Walk in the footsteps of Queen Boudica as you explore the countryside around a Roman fortress.

Distance 6.3 miles (10.1km)

Minimum time 3hrs

Ascent/gradient 279ft (85m)

Level of difficulty Hard

Paths Paved road and public footpaths, several sets of steps

Landscape Rolling farmland and an archaeological site

Suggested map aqua3 OS Explorer 237 Norwich

Start/finish TG 232032

Dog friendliness Dogs must be on leads in Roman town

Parking South Norfolk Council and Norfolk Archaeological Trust car park at Roman fort (free)

Public toilets None on route

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Directions
Background
Information

1 The first part of the walk follows the marked circular trail around Venta Icenorum, so go through the gate next to the notice board at the car park. The trail is marked by red and white circles. Climb 36 steps, then go down six to reach the huge bank that protected the town, with a deep ditch to your left. Head west, towards the River Tas.

2 Turn right by the bench, past fragments of the old walls, and then turn right again when you reach a longer section of wall, still following the trail markers. Go through a gate, then walk along the side of the bank with more wall to your right. Go up 39 steps, then descend again to the ditch on the eastern edge of the town. Go past 11th-century St Edmund's Church and when you reach the car park, go through it on to the lane and turn right. You are now on Boudica's Way.

3 Just after the brick cottages take the tiny unmarked lane to your left, still following Boudica's Way. Go up a hill, keep straight at the next junction and keep walking until you see Whiteford Hall.

4 Turn left up Valley Farm Lane, following the yellow Boudica's Way markers. After the farm, look for the footpath sign to your right. Take this and keep to your right, along the side of a hedge. Jig right, then immediately left and keep walking until you reach a paved lane. Turn left and then look for another footpath sign to your right.

5 Take the footpath, and follow the markers down a hill and up the other side. It's important to keep to the footpaths here, because there are plenty of signs indicating private property. At the top of the field, take the right-hand path signed towards Arminghall. This narrow track leads you past several houses until you eventually meet a paved lane by St Mary's Church, Arminghall. This lane is used by cyclists, so beware. Follow it for about 1¼ miles (2km), using the intermittent gravel track on the left.

6 At the T-junction go left, using the gravel path and the verges. Descend a hill into the village of Caistor St Edmund, and follow signs for the Roman town, passing 17th-century Caistor Hall to your left. Keep walking until you reach the signs for Venta Icenorum, then turn right into the car park.

When the Romans invaded Britain, they built arrow-straight roads, established well-run, prosperous towns and developed industries like tile-making, salt and potteries. But not all local tribes were pleased to be part of the Roman Empire.

One rebel was Boudica, who had been married to King Prasutagus of the Iceni. The trouble started when Prasutagus died in ad 60. He was barely cold in his grave before the Roman procurator's men arrived to grab property and money, and troops appeared to impose military law. One Roman insulted Boudica, who responded with anger, and in retaliation was flogged and her daughters raped. News of this outrage spread like wildfire throughout East Anglia and the revolt was born. Her headquarters are said to have been at or near Venta Icenorum at Caistor.

Contemporary accounts tell us that Boudica was tall, with fierce eyes and a strident voice. She had a mane of tawny hair that tumbled to her waist and she wore a striking multi-coloured tunic, a gold neck torc and a cloak held by a brooch. Female rulers were not unknown to the Iceni and they quickly rallied to her fiery speeches of rebellion and revenge. Other tribes joined the throng as Boudica's army moved against the Romans, carrying huge shields and wearing their best battle gear.

From Venta Icenorum to Colchester they marched, probably using the recently completed Roman road. The army grew until it was said to be 100,000 strong, all angry and determined to exact revenge on their hated oppressors. Meanwhile, Colchester was wholly unprepared for the attack, because the civilians had been assured there was nothing to worry about - they had well-trained Roman soldiers to defend them. But as soon as the garrison spotted the enormous, vengeful throng, they abandoned their posts and fled for safety inside the temple of Claudius. The civilians were left to fend for themselves. A massacre followed of the most shocking magnitude. No one was spared and as many as 20,000 were killed. The wooden town was burned to the ground and the stone temple fell two days later. Boudica then moved on London and St Albans, where the grisly process was repeated.

The Roman general Suetonius marched to meet her and the two forces met near St Albans. Suetonius' well-trained military machine was outnumbered by the Britons, but reports say that the Romans destroyed 80,000 of the larger force - an appalling number of dead for any battle. Boudica probably poisoned herself after the defeat, but her legend lives on. This walk takes you through the lands she once ruled, some of it along the 38-mile (61km) footpath named in her honour.

While you're there

You can see the outskirts of Norwich on parts of this walk, and Norfolk's capital city has a vast amount to offer the visitor, from fine medieval buildings to modern art. The City of Norwich Aviation Museum lies 3 miles (4.8km) north of the city, while in the city itself the Forum building on Millennium Plain offers an interactive journey through time. Don't miss Inspire, a hands-on science discovery exhibition, and the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts.

What to look for

Information boards around Venta Icenorum will explain what is what as you walk the perimeter, so look out for them. The wild flowers here are also worth seeking out. Between June and September look for common knapweed, which has hairy pink flowers and was once used as a remedy for sore throats. Common mallows are also pink, have a thick, round stem, and large reddish-mauve flowers. Also look for viper's bugloss, a member of the borage family, which has spiky, purplish-violet flowers.

Where to eat and drink

The Wildebeest Arms in nearby Stoke Holy Cross has a family restaurant and offers bar meals as well as selling official leaflets about the Roman site. It has an attractive seating area outside. The Stoke Holy Cross post office also sells information leaflets, and a selection of drinks and confectionery.