Aubergine

The namesake-coloured aubergine canopy and front door make this renowned, well-heeled Chelsea fixture easy to spot on its side street just off the Fulham Road's hustle and bustle, where William Drabble's modern French cuisine continues to shine. Aubergine cruets, dress plates and menus continue the theming inside at generous-sized, white-clothed tables with chocolate undercloths, where the room's muted, subtle tones create a relaxed, understated, stylish mood. Floors are light wood, walls beige ragged-effect hung with abstract artworks, and comfortable high-backed chairs come in cream, apricot and dark red. There's a stunning floral display at the entrance and a small seating area to enjoy aperitifs. The predominantly Gallic service is professional, attentive and friendly, providing the perfect support act for Drabble's refined modern cooking that comes underpinned by a classical theme. Intelligently simple, stylish and self confident, it focuses around the use of the highest-quality ingredients (including luxury items), with dishes impressively uncomplicated by unnecessary embellishment. It's accurate, delicate, perfectly timed and balanced and oozes clean, clear flavours. Think roasted John Dory with creamed yellow-leg chanterelles, or perhaps an assiette of pork (braised cheek, roast belly and black pudding) served with a mustard jus, and to finish, a tart Tatin with vanilla ice cream. The repertoire's delivered via a fixed-price menu format of lunch (this three-courses affair - with half bottle of wine and half bottle of mineral water - is considered a bargain), plus an enticing carte and seven-course gourmand option, while peripherals like bread, amuse-bouche and petits fours all hit form, too.

W along Fulham Rd, close to Chelsea and Westminster Hospital
Nearest station: South Kensington, Fulham Broadway

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