Locanda Locatelli

This slick, sophisticated and much-vaunted Italian - about the best in the country - is tucked away off Portman Square, and is the haunt of a well-heeled, celebrity crowd. Cream leather banquette seating, concave mirrors and subdued lighting (in the evenings) set the scene at this buzzy, classy David Collins designed restaurant. Its retro yet stylish interior features parquet flooring, grained-wood walls, glass dividers and modern artworks, including pieces by Paul Simonan (of the Clash pop band) and Damien Hirst. The service is as sleek and notable as the décor, Italian staff court customers with flair and passion and have a real appreciation of the food, while chef Giorgio Locatelli glides between tables surveying his clientele and ensuring his delicious food is being enjoyed with the passion shown in its creation. The ingredients are the absolute best and lovingly sourced, and the breads (some nine items, like foccacia, pane carasau, grissini, etc) and pasta are phenomenal. The style is modern northern Italian, and there's a real freshness about the cooking, enhanced by great combinations while nothing is over-worked or too complicated, so flavours sing out. The traditionally laid-out menu offers plenty of choice, so do come hungry and set to go four rounds - antipasta, pasta, main and dessert - to do the ultimate justice to Giorgio's inspired cooking ... it doesn't come better in the Italian format! Think home-made chestnut tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, perhaps pan-fried calves' kidney served with potato purée and ceps, and to finish, maybe a panettone bread-and-butter pudding with panettone ice cream. A sommelier is on hand to help navigate the impressive regionally-focused, all-Italian wine list with its superb vintages from Tuscany and Piemonte. But do book well in advance as it's always busy. This is one not to be missed!

Opposite Marylebone police station
Nearest station: Marble Arch

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