Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley

Oozing sophistication and opulence, Pétrus comes discreetly located off the foyer and beyond the stylish Caramel Room lounge-bar at the luxury Berkeley Hotel - the unobtrusive name on the handles of its tinted-glass doors lets you know you've arrived. As soon as you enter you're cosseted by slick and attentive staff, consummate professionals, though not at all stuffy. Rich, vivid and sexy, the interior is the work of design guru David Collins, the sensual claret colours and textures reflecting that of the world-renowned wine that lends the restaurant its name. Eye-catching features grab the attention - two giant abacuses complete with blown-glass beads act as a screen for the wine chillers, fantastic chandeliers, stunning French blinds, chairs of soft burgundy leather and red velvety walls all seduce. Trolleys for cheeses, liqueurs and, most importantly, the bonbons, with its wonderful selection of sweetmeats, all circle the floor in style and add a sense of theatre to the occasion. There's also a small lounge area for aperitifs and a chef's table in the kitchen for up to eight guests. It's all a bold and striking complement to the impeccable cooking that makes Pétrus a dining magnet on the international culinary map. Marcus Wareing's modern approach is classically based, has great integrity and owes much to the insistence on the absolute best in raw ingredients. The elegant, richly detailed cuisine oozes technical wizardry, precision, balance, clear flavours and wow factor ... this is skill of the highest order! Think grilled Dorset halibut teamed with new season leeks, confit potato, Oscietra caviar and parsley, while dessert might showcase a peanut parfait with rice crisp crunch and Valrhona chocolate mousse. A serious wine list, with a good selection by glass, naturally includes offerings from that namesake château, while set-price lunch continues to offer great value at this level.

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Nearest station: Knightsbridge, Hyde Park Corner

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