Gidleigh Park

The twisting, one-and-a-half-mile drive along a private lane to this globally acclaimed, black-and-white mock-Tudor Dartmoor retreat is so worth the effort - magically set in extensive gardens traversed by the tumbling River Teign, it's nothing short of idyllic! And, though Gidleigh was stylishly transformed and rejuvenated by a multi-million pound, 11-month refurbishment programme back in 2006 (and is now in the secure hands of Andrew Brownsword, chef Michael Caines' business partner in the Abode group), it has cleverly lost none of its timeless charm and homely atmosphere ... a quite stunning achievement! There are now three dining rooms all with a different style - the more contemporary room comes with a glass wine wall and oak floor, while the 'Teign' is a light room with access out on to the garden terrace and the 'Meldon' is oak panelled and traditional in style. And, a pre- or post-meal stroll in the 45 acres of grounds is still a Gidleigh requisite, sauntering among delightful terraced gardens and beech woods, on manicured lawns and beside the riverbank, while the views from the interior and terraces over the peerless Dartmoor setting are unforgettable. The name Michael Caines alone draws people from far and wide to experience the exquisite, modern, classically-inspired seasonal cuisine. The imaginative cooking showcases fresh, tip-top quality local ingredients, brimful of luxury and intricate presentation, offered as fixed-price lunch, dinner and tasting options. Think braised turbot and scallops served with wild mushrooms and a chive butter sauce, or slow-roast Hatherleigh venison served with braised pork belly and red cabbage and fig and chestnut purées, and perhaps a hot pistachio soufflé and pistachio ice cream to finish. The cheeseboard is a cracking feature, the wine list superb, while peripherals like canapés, breads, amuse-bouche and petits fours all hit top form too. The rejuvenated Gidleigh is a must-visit destination.

From Chagford Sq turn right at Lloyds TSB into Mill St, after 150yds right fork, across x-rds into Holy St. Restaurant 1.5m
Nearest station: Exeter St Davids

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