Hotel Endsleigh

The location is breathtaking, set in 108 acres of lush, green, rolling Devon countryside, woodlands and gardens, and with the Tamar River as a natural boundary. The house was built in 1812 as a lodge for the Duke of Bedford who used it with his family only once a year, but these days, under the stewardship Olga Polizzi (see entry for Hotel Tresanton, St Mawes), it is a stylish hotel. The building is rather grand and the impeccably tasteful blend of traditional and more contemporary styling, plus well chosen furniture and sensitive restoration of original features, has resulted in the creation of a truly beautiful and quietly luxurious hotel. The panelled dining room is elegant and comfortable, with tables laid with crisp white linen and enjoying fine views, not least from the terrace - the place to eat if the weather allows. In the evening, this magnificent room is entirely lit by candlelight. The menu is based around first-rate produce, much of it local, and takes a modern approach and displays a distinctly English flavour alongside modern European influences and ideas. The new head chef is displaying fine technique in dishes such as wild mushroom risotto, given a rich creaminess with the addition of truffled Cornish brie and finished with a saffron velouté. Sound combinations and creative touches are also evident in main courses such as loin of saddleback pork served with a crisp piece of crackling, the cheek cooked slowly until tender, and butternut squash purée, wild garlic and grain mustard emulsion. Presentation is impressive right through to a dessert of chocolate fondant with a white chocolate pannacotta and butterscotch ice cream. The uniformed staff are professional and suitably friendly.

Follow Tavistock signs for B3362, continue through Milton Abbot. On brow of hill, next to school, turn right for hotel. At top of drive turn right at lodge
Nearest station: Tavistock

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