Charles Bathurst Inn

Strategically located about halfway along the St Bee's Head to Robin Hood's Bay coast-to-coast walk, this 18th-century inn is predictably popular with ramblers. Set in remote and beautiful Arkengarthdale, the CB (as regulars call it) was a bunkhouse for lead miners employed by the man himself, an 18th-century lord of the manor and son of Oliver Cromwell's physician. Customers entering the bar and restaurant, once a barn and stable, are greeted by cosy fires and antique pine furniture. The owners pride themselves on knowing the provenance of all their food, which is purchased locally and prepared and cooked on the premises. The menu, written up daily on an imposing mirror hanging at the end of the bar, reflects the frequently changing availability of fresh, seasonal food, and features lamb and beef from Swale Hall, game (in season) from the surrounding moors, and fish from Hartlepool (delivered six times weekly). Starters might include asparagus and Wensleydale cheese tartlet with sour cherry confit; and home-made black pudding with tomato fondue and seared queen scallops. For a hearty lunch try Swaledale shank of lamb, mixed beans and juniper jus; or the lighter aubergine, tomato and feta gratin. An evening meal of line-caught wild sea bass with smoked salmon mousseline and roasted root vegetables could prove a winner, followed perhaps by pear frangipane with lemon, honey and crème fraîche ice cream. Wines are supplied by award-winning Playford Ros of Thirsk. While in the area visit the CB's sister establishment, the 17th-century Punch Bowl Inn, in neighbouring Swaledale.

B6270 to Reeth. At Buck Hotel turn N to Langthwaite, pass church on right, inn 0.5m on right
Nearest station: Darlington

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