Le Champignon Sauvage

Expanded and refurbished, this culinary big-hitter has a long-standing, much-deserved reputation for culinary excellence. With chef-patron David Everitt-Matthias' innovative and polished skills combining with some surprisingly reasonable prices, it's set to continue as a national favourite with regulars, foodies and professionals alike, all beating a path to its doors for memorable dining and inspiration. Unassumingly tucked away in a terrace of shops on a busy main road in the quieter Montpellier district of town, this smart French restaurant provides few clues from outside of its premier-league status and enduring charm. Inside, however, the new spaciousness is immediately apparent to all but first-timers, though there's an instant warmth and vitality here that can be appreciated by all. Bright and spacious, it makes the most of its shop-front windows, and there's a small lounge area with comfortable leather chairs. Decorated with lovely white ash panelling, its light blue walls are hung with striking modern art. Carpet and darkwood upholstered chairs continue the blue theme, alongside simply but elegantly dressed tables, while service, headed-up by wife Helen, is friendly, attentive and knowledgeable. There's no shortage of flair and imagination from David's kitchen - technical skill seems to abound here, the highly accomplished style delivering some classic combinations alongside more contemporary flashes, and always pleases. His peerless reputation for hard work and dedication to his craft is evident in the matching and balancing of flavours, which is exemplary, combined with the use of some interesting ingredients. Think a chump of Cotswold lamb paired with Jerusalem artichoke cream, globe artichokes and liquorice and almonds, or perhaps seared zander served with a casserole of ceps and a red wine emulsion. Peripherals like breads, amuse-bouche, pre-desserts and petits fours are equally impressive. This is inspirational cooking from start to finish!

S of the town centre, on A40, near Cheltenham College
Nearest station: Cheltenham Spa

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