Chez Bruce

This small, unassuming place - that looks more like a bistro from outside rather than Wandsworth's culinary star - is set in a parade of shops overlooking the common, and is heaving most of the time. First-timers should look out for the large maroon-coloured planters bursting with flowers outside, or just follow the savvy crowd who are full of admiration for Bruce Poole's memorable cuisine. Inside cuts a relaxed, modern edge, with wooden floors, muted restful beiges and caramels, soft lighting and a collection of prints. The effect is simple but pleasing, though space is at a premium, and, with no drinks area, diners are shown straight to white-linen clad tables, where service proves friendly, eager, attentive and knowledgeable. The kitchen's accomplished modern approach pays due respect to classical and regional France, alongside wider Mediterranean influences, but remains pleasingly unfussy while focusing on the highest quality ingredients with an eye for seasonality. Noteworthy flavours, perfect balance and impeccable skill make for a memorable experience. Expect the likes of a fillet of sea bream served with a mushroom duxelle, potato pancake, oyster beignet and dill, while a classic crème brûlée or perhaps a cherry and almond croustade with cinnamon ice cream might head-up desserts. Regularly-changing menus, affordable prices (particularly at lunch) and an impressive wine list complete a consistently classy act.

Near Wandsworth Common station
Nearest station: Wandsworth Common/Balham

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