5 North Street

Just off the high street, the Ashenfords' small but perfectly formed restaurant is a major player in the highly dynamic Cotswold dining scene. The style is determinedly unpretentious, with amiable service and well-spaced, unclothed tables and a sober colour scheme. Marcus's simple but effective cooking utilises produce of palpable quality, achieving excellent combinations and fantastic depth of flavour. Like the surrounding décor, it's all about quiet understatement, and all the more effective for that. High standards are consistently hit from one visit to the next, and within each meal. A range of four fixed-price menus enables you to decide on a budget, with the seven-course Gourmet option a succession of surprises. A brace of fat, tenderly caramelised scallops is topped with light cauliflower purée, with an expertly judged dressing of mango and vanilla in support. Alongside them comes a glass of richly dark crab consommé containing pieces of the white meat. So far, so stunning, but dinner may proceed with meltingly soft best end of local lamb, accompanied by the rolled, slow-cooked breast, served with rosemary carrots, mash, and an opulent lamb stock reduction. The form dessert is a serving of white chocolate and basil crème brûlée, intense passionfruit sorbet and chocolate ice cream studded with gooey marshmallow. All incidentals, from the superlative breads to the petits fours, are equally up to snuff.

7m from Cheltenham
Nearest station: Cheltenham

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