The Sportsman

The Sportsman, a white-fronted former pub with a big reputation, is in a remote spot on the outskirts of Whitstable, on the seafront but protected from it by a sea wall. A simple décor and wooden tables mean that eyes are not diverted from the self-styled 'haute farmyard' dishes listed on blackboards (there's also a tasting menu). What's chalked up depends on what the kitchen has been able to get from local farms, boats and game dealers, and while dishes may sound simple the descriptions belie the level of skill that goes into their execution. Naturally, seafood is a strong suit, from slip sole grilled with seaweed butter, or Whitstable oysters, to braised turbot with mussel tartare, or roast red mullet with bouillabaisse sauce. Meat dishes make an impact too, from plain pork terrine to a winter main course of roast chicken with bread sauce, chestnuts and bacon, and combinations are as well considered in desserts like rhubarb sorbet with burned cream, and lemon tart with meringue ice cream.