The Partridge

32 St Mary's Street, WALLINGFORD, OX10 0ET

The Partridge, just a minute from the Thames, is divided into an informal bar area and a smartly decorated restaurant with high-backed upholstered seats at polished wooden tables and a neutral-coloured carpet underfoot. The surroundings may suggest gastro-pub but the cooking demonstrates a more go-ahead and fashionable approach. Fillet of halibut is paired with pancetta and served with pak choi and sweet potatoes, and venison pie is flavoured with bitter chocolate. Starters show the same confidence, with rhubarb compôte and pickled cauliflower accompanying a terrine of smoked salmon and dill, and an apple and lemongrass broth with pan-fried Lyme Bay scallops. Valrhona chocolate fondant, perhaps with pistachio cream and strawberry ice cream, seems to be a front runner among desserts.

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Truly exceptional: first-class food at prices which defy belief - £11.50 for two courses on the Market Menu. How does Organic Eggs Benedict with wilted spinach, followed by pan-fried Calves liver, sauteed potatoes, green beans and pesto sauce sound? I ate this yesterday and it was sublime, cooked and presented with real flair. I eat here every week. Food is exquisite, the decor stylish, the staff charming and the atmosphere both refined and relaxed. Cannot recommend it highly enough.

Reviewer: Rachel, Wallingford
Visited: 30 April 2009

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