The Torridon Restaurant

The drive along winding hilly roads only adds to the sense of anticipation of a visit to The Torridon, and what greets you on arrival more than lives up to expectations. The beautiful old shooting lodge looks the part, right down to the soaring tower and position looking across a sea loch (Upper Loch Torridon). There are 58 acres of wooded grounds to explore, so every opportunity to work up an appetite. The hotel is smartly done-out, avoiding cliché, and successfully blending traditional features with contemporary style. The whisky bar offers a selection of over 350 malts, which should be enough to satisfy even the most ardent connoisseur. The restaurant is a fitting setting for the first-class cooking of chef 'Bruno' Birkbeck: acres of magnificent oak panelling on the walls and top quality linen on the tables set the scene, ably supported by magnificent views. The service is a credit to the place, being both charming and completely clued-up about the food. The modern Scottish cooking puts the fabulous regional produce to the fore, kicking off with canapés in the elegant drawing room or whisky bar; crisp goujons of lemon sole, perhaps, with lemon mayonnaise. Impeccable timing and seasoning is on display in a first-course risotto of Bayonne ham and sage, served with a quail's egg covered in crisp breadcrumbs, topped with a sage foam. Next up, a ravioli of lobster claw with shellfish foam, followed by roast loin of cod with smoked chicken and a pearl barley broth. Chocolate fondant is as perfect as can be, served up in the classic manner with vanilla ice cream, albeit with some caramel pieces to add another dimension.