The Cross at Kingussie

The Cross at Kingussie was once a textile mill, but there's nothing tweedy about David and Katie Young's classy restaurant with rooms. Four idyllic acres of grounds and woodland are home to red squirrels, abundant birds and wild flowers, and the Gynack Burn bubbles by an alfresco terrace that is the perfect place to de-stress with a glass of bubbly before dinner. It is hard to fault the Cross: the stone building has been beautifully restored and manages to be tasteful, relaxed and utterly without pretension. Rough stone walls and heavy beams blend seamlessly with modern artworks and natural wood tables with quality glassware in the spacious dining room. The food is both fabulous and unfussy in keeping with its surroundings. Wild mushrooms are foraged locally and Scotland's finest materials are showcased in compact daily-changing menus of modern Scottish dishes. A terrine of organic Highland chicken with prosciutto and fig chutney shows the kitchen's well-balanced, uncluttered approach to flavour combinations. Main courses might offer a baked whole Scrabster lemon sole with wild mushrooms, marsh samphire, spring truffle and purple eye potato cake. Dark chocolate and pear tart with liquorice ice cream makes an exemplary finale. The wine list balances serious quality with fair pricing, and the service and hospitality are a template for how things should be done.

From lights in Kingussie centre along Ardbroilach Rd, 300yds left onto Tweed Mill Brae
Nearest station: Kingussie

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