Barberstown Castle

The original 13th-century crenellated tower rubs shoulders with Elizabethan and Victorian wings in this classy country-house hotel handily placed for Dublin city centre and airport. The elegant dining rooms occupy the extensions, and come with heaps of period character and views over the gardens. Seated at throne-like wooden chairs at candlelit, linen-clad tables amid tapestries and wooden and flagstoned floors, dinner is a special occasion here, aided by staff who step up to the mark with appropriately professional service. With a French chef directing the culinary output, classical influences are strong in dishes that are put together with a clear understanding of flavour combinations and sound techniques. A starter of oxtail and foie gras roulade with quince chutney and mulled wine dressing shows the style, while mains could see pan-fried skate wing sharing a plate with scallops, leeks and cured ham, and caper and lemon butter.