The Inn at Lathones

In days of yore before the world of golf invaded St Andrews, this stylish, much-extended inn tucked away among the back roads was a simple drovers' inn surrounded by rolling countryside. Nowadays the 400-year-old hostelry is a stylishly updated venue with a cosy restaurant sporting whitewashed walls, bare stone fireplaces and contemporary artworks; tables are smartly laid with crisp linen, but amiable staff keep things ticking over with an easygoing vibe. Divided into categories of 'seafood and pasta', 'roasts and grills', and 'casseroles and slow-cooked dishes', the menu is easy to navigate and offers a trio of choices under each heading - expect top-notch Scottish materials to be put to imaginative use in dishes that rework traditional themes. Start with crab fritters with mango salsa and wasabi mayonnaise, moving on to simple grilled halibut with crayfish butter, or a more hearty chargrilled fillet of Angus beef teamed with an oxtail bridie (that's a sort of Scottish pasty) and slow-cooked boneless short rib. End on a sweet note with an orange blossom crème brûlée with fruit compôte and yoghurt ice cream, or go savoury with a platter of Scottish cheeses.