In an idyllic Thames-side setting, the elegant glass-fronted dining room of the renowned French Horn opens onto a terrace with fabulous views over primped lawns to mature willows dipping their fronds into the river. The setting is one of traditionally formal plushly-padded poise, presided over by a slick team of knowledgeable waiting staff. With a name like the French Horn, the kitchen wears its heart on its sleeve: classically French, and serious in its style of presentation. So expect quail ballottine stuffed with foie gras and served with truffle vinaigrette, before the signature dish, caneton rôti à l'Anglaise (yes, the menu is in French too, helpfully translated), spit-roast duck, which turns fragrantly above the fire, and comes to table with apple purée, sage stuffing and rich duck jus, or a more innovative pan-fried fillet of Dover sole with banana and mango chutney sauce. End on a resolutely Gallic note with crêpes Suzette, or a Grand Marnier soufflé.