Saracens at Hadnall

The red-brick Georgian coaching inn sits beside the A49 as it winds through fertile Shropshire landscapes, continuing a venerable tradition of feeding travellers in style in its modern incarnation as a delightful restaurant with rooms. The Saracens Restaurant is a Georgian-style room with polished-wood flooring, panelled walls and a stone fireplace extending into an airy conservatory, which features a capped well, and there's a cosy bar to bookend the experience over local ales and a fine selection of after-dinner firewaters. The family farm in Shropshire helps the kitchen stay true to the region in its commendable local sourcing policy, which ensures that everything is underpinned by the wholesome feeling of top-class ingredients. Modern British ideas come with earthy bistro overtones - perhaps a pressing of corn-fed duck leg and pistachio with spiced pear chutney to set the ball rolling, then lavender-roasted loin of local lamb with colcannon potatoes and cabbage. Artisan local cheeses offer a tempting alternative to sweet-toothed finishers such as treacle and ginger parkin with toffee sauce and clotted cream.