In pole position on Rye's delightful timbered high street, and with over four centuries of history under its belt, The George is an alluring prospect. There is no lack of character inside - spot beams from an Elizabethan ship, an 18th-century wig store, and the Georgian ballroom. Thoughtful refurbishment has injected a classy contemporary look to leaven the sense of antiquity, and in The George Grill, soft lighting, candlelit tables and cream walls hung with bold local art combine in a romantic ambience. The cooking is thoroughly up to date: daily menus follow the seasons, ingredients are hauled in from the farms of Sussex and Kent, while the trawlers of Rye Bay can be relied upon to provide fish and seafood, such as the scallops starring in a starter with butter bean purée and chorizo. Lamb comes from Romney Marsh to join forces with roasted aubergine, curly kale and gremolata in a Mediterranean-accented main course, and vanilla rice pudding with caramelised roast apple ends on a comforting note. Excellent wines from East Sussex and Kent vineyards are on hand to boost the sense of local terroir.