In a Regency terrace overlooking Jefferson Park, opposite the bandstand, Peter Knibb's place is a compact but stylish contemporary restaurant, complete with open-plan kitchen and an enthusiastic crowd of regulars. Theatre-goers eating early are accommodated punctually, and the modern European cooking is all about emphasising the natural flavours and textures of its materials. An essay in quail might start things off, comprised of roasted breast meat and a braised leg, with pak choi and sesame seeds in a quail stock and sherry consommé, before the main business arrives in the form of sea bass, chorizo and squid with leeks and coco beans, or classic pancetta-wrapped monkfish with carrot and cardamom purée and braised baby gem, sauced with red wine. Dishes score highly for value in their diversity and excitement, all the way to desserts such as chocolate fondant made with Tanzanian 75% gear, accompanied by salted caramel, poached pear and chocolate sorbet.