Queens Room at Amberley Castle Hotel

If you want grand, Amberley has the goods. From the moment the crenellated towers of the gatehouse heave into view above this winsome Sussex village, you know you're in for a treat. Inside, the 900-year-old castle is a world of Norman arches, lancet windows and vaulted stonework, where guests recline on four-poster beds and diners make a beeline for the 12th-century, barrel-vaulted, tapestried Queen's Room, which was done up comparatively recently to celebrate the Restoration. In this awe-inspiring setting, James Dugan's cooking completes the picture, rising to the occasion with a high-gloss version of modern European cuisine. A pavé of salmon served rare in a kind of minestrone complete with home-made pasta tubes is a fascinating starter, while the expected foie gras appears in a glazed terrine, complemented cleverly with smoked eel and apple. Local organic pork is served 2 ways, braised shoulder and a cutlet, along with colcannon and a sweet-pungent mix of turnip and plum, while inventiveness is maintained to the last, with finishers like spiced fig cake with matching ice cream, lemon jelly and a toasted almond-flavoured foam. A majestic wine list accompanies it all, and a dress code applies; leave your jeans at home.

Off B2139 between Storrington & Houghton
Nearest station: Amberley

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