The Vineyard at Stockcross

The Vineyard is a five-star hotel with considerable va-va-voom, which is in part down to its dedication to top-class food and drink. Yes, it has every spa and business facility to meet the needs of the home-counties clientele, the bedrooms are spacious, bright and contemporary, and it could make a special day of your wedding, but the restaurant, under the auspices of Frenchman Daniel Galmiche, is reason enough in itself to visit. The handsome split-level dining room has a sweeping staircase with a balustrade fashioned as if it were a grapevine snaking between the spaces, tables are dressed to thrill in their best whites, and the splendid artwork around the room is the real deal. The menu is thoroughly French-focussed and follows a decidedly modern route, with intelligent combinations of first-class ingredients its hallmark. To start, perhaps carpaccio and tartare of beef fillet with a wasabi cream and a balsamic jelly, or, if you've gone for the tasting menu, a Scottish scallop soufflé with truffle and shellfish sabayon. Next up, Balmoral Estate venison comes with foie gras, salsify, butternut squash and quince, or there might be pan-fried brill with a spiced-bread crust. Technical skills are acute right the way through to bitter chocolate box accompanied by salted caramel ice cream. The wine list is epic, with a Californian section that will make you want to book tickets to the West Coast post haste.