The Vineyard at Stockcross

The cuisine previously won 4AA Rosettes. This award is temporarily suspended, as there has been a recent change of chef. A new award will be in place, once our inspectors have completed their meal assessments cooked by the new kitchen team. Don't go searching for the vines in the grounds as the vineyard referenced in the name is inspired by the owner's winery in sunny California. It is, though, the perfect opportunity to explore the wines of the West Coast of the USA, and avoid the trials of Terminal 5, by delving into the magnificent list of Californian wines; there's a second list covering the rest of the world which is no slouch either. The place is a blend of Californian and Mediterranean styles, with a sweeping gravel driveway, a luxurious spa, and, undoubtedly the star attraction, a restaurant of international repute. Art and sculpture also figure large, the centrepiece being the contemporary 'Fire and Water' sculpture out front. The split-level dining room is linked by a sweeping staircase with a balustrade fashioned as if it were a grapevine snaking between the spaces, and, with tables smartly set with white linen and muted, mellow tones throughout, it is a classy setting for an inspirational chef at the top of his game. Tasting, carte and (exceedingly good value) lunch menu showcase Campbell's cooking, which puts the emphasis on flavour, working with first-class produce and, although refined, complex and innovative, it has seen a highly successful, slightly more measured approach of late. Organic salmon mi-cuit, for example, is a beautifully presented first course, topped with a piece of foie gras and perfectly partnered with a vanilla and apple purée. Deftly handled flavours are evident in a main course dish of turbot, where the lemongrass foam is judged to a tee, and accompanying pork belly, langoustines and mushrooms bring the dish to a satisfying crescendo. The creative thinking and technical proficiency extends to desserts such as sweet cucumber and mango consommé poured over vanilla pannacotta, with a cucumber sorbet and pea shoots. Service is out of the top drawer, confident and informed, and all the extras (bread, pre-starter etc.) confirm the Vineyard to be a compelling, dynamic restaurant of the highest order.

M4 junct 13/A34 Newbury bypass southbound, take 3rd exit signed Hungerford/Bath road interchange. Take 2nd exit at 1st and 2nd rdbts signed Stockcross, 0.6 mile on right
Nearest station: Newbury

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