While it may have a traditional exterior and has been at the heart of life in a bustling Dartmoor village since 1639, the interior has been brought smartly up to date. The contemporary brasserie dining room leads the way, with a fashionable white-linen-free zone that looks the part in duck egg blue, polished wooden floors and stag's antler chandelier. The kitchen deals in the modern British approach, too, driven on by fresh local and seasonal produce and plenty of passion and flair. Breast of local pheasant, for example, with wild mushroom risotto, or rump of Dartmoor lamb with mini mousakka and feta, while to finish, perhaps a classic crème brûlée or hot chocolate fondant.