Depending on how you calculate things, the elegant Georgian Manor Hotel in the village of Meriden is in the exact centre of England. The country setting is charming, yet the National Exhibition Centre and Birmingham are handily on the doorstep. The formal Regency restaurant deals in classic dishes given a light, contemporary spin, and attractively presented. A meal may open with smoked mackerel and potato terrine with horseradish and celeriac remoulade, then main courses run to the likes of pan-fried red mullet with caramelised fennel and red wine jus, or roast rump of lamb with Provençal potatoes, garlic and rosemary jus. Finish with pecan pie with toffee sauce and home-made caramel ice cream.