The Mercure chain is adept at revamping historic old premises, and a multi-million pound facelift has certainly opened a new chapter in the story of the characterful old Dolphin Hotel. Originally a coaching inn dating from the 17th century, many a famous face has put up for the night, including Queen Victoria and Admiral Nelson, and Jane Austen had her 18th birthday knees-up here in 1793. Bold contemporary colours blend with period features in the striking interior, making a modish setting for dining in the Signatures restaurant. The kitchen turns out a crowd-pleasing repertoire of uncomplicated classics with a modern spin. Start with a tried-and-tested combo of pan-seared scallops with black pudding and mustard sauce, then follow with slow-braised belly of Hampshire pork with apple and celeriac mash, caramelised apples and red wine sauce.