The French

Fans of opulent Belle Epoque Edwardiana can revel in the time-warp bubble of the Midland Hotel's French Restaurant. This is the polar opposite of contemporary greige minimalism - a pianist tinkles in the background amid a décor of fleur-de-lys wallpaper, high ceilings and chandeliers. Although the ambience says guéridon service - silver cloche dishes flambéed at the table by waiters named Serge - the cooking brings things into the modern world, although its roots are still clearly in the French classics. You might start with a thoroughly modern dish uniting a sage and onion risotto with pork scratchings and a Scotch egg, then follow with lamb served en croûte with basil mousse, carrots and courgette, or go for a posh 'surf n' turf' duo of brill with foie gras and gnocchi. Stay true to the setting and finish with a crêpe Suzette, flambéed at the table, of course.