Whatley Manor

Whatley Manor is an old manor house built to impress and it is probably making more of an impression in the 21st century than at any time in its history. Handsomely built of Cotswold stone, its 12 acres of idyllic surroundings certainly help to bring down the blood pressure, and, if exploring the meadows and woodland doesn't do the trick, there's always the spa. Diners can be reassured of the provenance of much of the food by glancing over to the kitchen garden from whence it came. The Dining Room offers dinner only in an elegant contemporary fine dining setting devoid of stuffiness. It seats only 40 but it seats them extremely comfortably. The Swiss-owned hotel also houses the more informal (and larger) brasserie, Le Mazot, which is open for lunch and dinner (12-2, 7-10 Mon-Sun) and has a splendid alfresco patio. The standard of cooking at both is consistently high from the team headed up by chef Martin Burge, delivering classical French food with a modern interpretation. At the Dining Room, whether you choose from the à la carte or seven-course tasting menu, you are guaranteed combinations of flavours that really deliver without unnecessary over-embellishment. Presentation is a strong suit, from the selection of canapés to pre-desserts and petits fours. Start with an intense and perfectly balanced roasted celeriac ravioli layered with truffle mushroom reduction, iced porcini and celeriac apple gel, moving onto a stunningly presented roasted venison loin dressed with smoked shallot purée, lightly pickled red cabbage and white balsamic. Desserts are no less technically thrilling: treacle tart with iced custard, pineapple sherbet and topped with coconut foam, for example. An impressive wine list features a fine global selection.

Please telephone for directions
Nearest station: Chippenham

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