Malmaison Aberdeen

Balmoral staff who were once housed here when the Granite City's outpost of the Malmaison chain was the Queen's Hotel may have raised an eyebrow at the sybaritic interiors that lie beyond the flouncy art nouveau-canopied portal these days. Bold statement colours and sensual textures come together in an industrial-chic interior that will strike a chord with fans of the Mal brand. Darkwood tables and funky, modern, royal-blue and damson tartans make for a sexily sepulchral setting in the cavernous, moodily-lit Brasserie restaurant; high stools overlook the centrepiece Josper grill, where bustling chefs turn out fuss-free modern dishes using top-class Scottish produce. Duck rillettes with celeriac remoulade gets the ball rolling, followed by yellow-fin tuna served sizzling pink from the Josper, with broccoli and almond purée. The operation is certainly up-front about the importance of wine: you walk through a glassed-in wine tunnel, and on top of the cellar beneath the glass floor on the way to the brasserie.