Proprietors Karen and Philip Burgess's inn amid striking Dartmoor landscape has been lovingly restored with unerringly good taste. The heart and soul of the 16th-century roadside inn remains, but interwoven with eclectic design touches echoing New England amongst other places. To prove its pub credentials, the smartly rustic bar serves real ales in front of a real fire, and has its own menu of super-charged pub classics - braised oxtail with onion rings and mash anyone? The main eating action, though, takes place in a lovely collection of intimate interconnecting spaces where tables are laid with sparkling glassware and linen cloths. The kitchen's experience at the sharp end of the restaurant trade shines through in its good use of local seasonal ingredients in refined but unfussy dishes. Start perhaps with pan-fried Falmouth Bay scallops with oyster beignet and chilli relish, before roasted rump of lamb with a tiny shepherd's pie and red wine sauce, and for pudding, perhaps a chocolate and hazelnut torte.