Camellia Country Kitchen at South Lodge Hotel

Built by a Victorian gentleman explorer on a brewing fortune, South Lodge is set in 90 acres of mature gardens with uplifting views over the spine of the South Downs. Garden connoisseurs should take a patrol around the fabulous collection of magnolias, rhododendrons and rare orchids, and spot the century-old camellia that gave the restaurant its name. Suffused with a feeling of effortless opulence, the Lodge has always managed a light touch in its approach, steering clear of starchy country-house formality - the Camellia Restaurant now styles itself as a 'Country Kitchen' after a recent makeover has added a contemporary flavour to its period elegance. The kitchen clearly has its heart in classics from the French brasserie repertoire, but there's a strong creative contemporary spirit at work here, as well as a clear loyalty to the splendid Sussex larder. Petworth pork fills a home-made sausage roll served with tomato and apple chutney and piccalilli, before mains of local lamb rump marinated in lemon and basil, with confit potato and stuffed baby peppers. To finish, rhubarb and custard is reinvented as rhubarb tart and délice with custard ice cream. The wine list waves the flag for British vineyards with a fine showing of Sussex bottles produced within 15 miles of the hotel. (See also entry for The Pass Restaurant).