Camellia

A haven of gracious living, this impeccably presented Victorian country-house hotel stands in 90 acres of mature gardens and grounds, and offers stunning views over the South Downs. With its wood panelling, oil paintings, heavy fabrics and sense of space, it was built to impress and it certainly does. The extended, sumptuous candlelit restaurant - named after the 100-year-old camellia which still grows against the terrace wall - continues the theme, with ornate ceilings, wood panelling and floors and crisp white tablecloths, while large windows offer views over the Downs. Service is formal but appropriately friendly. The kitchen's approach is intelligently simple, with the emphasis on allowing tip-top seasonal produce to shine. The style is modern-focused and underpinned by a classical theme, with the fixed-price menu repertoire refreshingly unpretentious. Dishes are delivered with flair and a lightness of touch and enjoy well-defined flavours and combinations. For mains, take slow-cooked fillet of Sussex beef served with braised oxtail, creamed potato and mushroom purée, or monkfish tail with spiced lentils, smoked salmon ravioli and parsley sauce, and for dessert, perhaps treacle tart with gingerbread ice cream.

On A23 left onto B2110. Turn right through Handcross to A281 junct. Turn left, hotel on right
Nearest station: Horsham

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