Barclay House

The sparkling white country villa overlooks gently undulating east Cornwall, with views of the harbour at Looe. The public rooms are cleanly designed, expansive spaces, and the tone is set by the Russian concert pianist who struts his stuff in the dining room on Saturday evenings. 'Modern British coastal cuisine' is how the kitchen styles its output, and with the bounty of the day-boats at Looe to go at, it has a head start. Scallops are given the classic contemporary treatment with Jerusalem artichoke purée, black pudding and pea shoots, while Fowey River mussels are cooked in St Austell's renowned HSD strong ale. Continue the fish theme with a main course of grilled turbot in smoked bacon chowder, or go meaty with local beef rib-eye, bubble-and-squeak and shallot and thyme jam. Cornish clotted cream is the must-have garnish to a hot chocolate orange fondant, and there are regional cheeses as well, served with tomato and apple chutney.