Wapping Food

Set in the now-cool, rejuvenated London Docks, this former hydraulic pumping station turned restaurant and gallery is a rather hip, unique setting for dinner. The cavernous, hard-edged, warehouse-like space feels like a gigantic Tracy Emin-style art installation, with its trendy, simple, modern furniture sitting amid massive old machinery, girders, chains and pulleys, green tiled and painted brick walls and towering windows, the whole softened by a myriad of flickering candles, a dangling mirror ball, and a bar and open kitchen. The daily-changing, modern European menu takes a light, healthy approach that lets the prime-quality ingredients shine. Witness brill teamed with chicory, pea purée, lardo and sorrel, or duck breast with beetroot, cherries, chicory and dandelion leaf. End on a high with a moist and light pistachio and lemon cake with cherries and crème fraiche. The equally inspired all-Aussie wine list has as much personality as the surroundings and food.