Tom Aikens

As we go to print, Tom Aikens is closing for a bit of a revamp. The original Anouska Hempel design wore rather well, but times change, things move on, and Mr Aikens is not the type to settle into comfortable familiarity. We know not what delights the designers have in store, but the word is a less formal environment is planned. As the five Rosettes attest, the cooking at this smart Chelsea address is some of the most alluring in the capital, and therefore the country. There is an unerring lightness of touch to dishes, flavours sing loud and true, and the presentation may well take your breath away at times. As you might expect, there's a tasting menu which might have among its number a loin of Romney Marsh lamb with a tarragon purée, Berkswell sheep's cheese, and a black olive crumb. At this level of cooking, and at these prices, anything but the very best produce just won't do, and here the ingredients are out of the top drawer. From the carte, poached Cardigan Bay lobster tail comes with an apple consommé and pork belly in a harmonious first course, or there might be loin of rabbit with a chervil mousse, confit lemon and rabbit jelly. The attention to detail and acute technical virtuosity of dishes can only be admired. Main-course roast Devon suckling pig comes with roasted pineapple, squid and baby gem, or go for steamed Arctic char with heritage carrots, blood orange and crab salad. Among desserts expect all the indulgence of truffle and vanilla pannacotta, with white chocolate, a little kick of black pepper, and truffle ice cream. The wine list is a fine piece of work.